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SALON ALON | Alon Rottler
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HAIR FACTS
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Hair is a living protein, and as with any living part of our bodies. We must be sure to maintain proper health to optimize our chances of maintaining a healthy head of hair. Proper nutrition is vital to maintaining healthy hair, since the hair is a living and growing part of the body system. Viewing it in this manner can help us to treat our bodies different and raise expectations through proper care.
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what hair is?, how it grows?, what system malfunctions can cause it to stop growing?
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The best start to preventing hair loss is understanding the basics of hair. Hair is the fastest growing tissue of the body, made up of proteins called keratins. Every strand of hair is made up of three layers:
the inner layer or medulla (only present in thick hairs); the middle layer or cortex, which determines the strength, texture, and color of hair; and the cuticle, which protects the cortex.
Hair grows from roots, which are enclosed in follicles. Below this is a layer of skin called the dermal papilla, which is fed by the bloodstream carrying nourishments vital to the growth of hair.
Only the roots of hair are actually alive, while the visible part of hair is dead tissue, and also, unable to heal itself. It is vital then to take care of the scalp and body in order to perpetuate hair growth and maintenance.
Hormones called androgens, usually testosterone, can cause hair follicles to shrink, causing thinning of hair or eventual hair loss.
The average scalp contains 100,000-150,000 hair follicles and hairs, with 90% growing and 10% resting at any given time. Hair actually grows in three stages: anagen, catagen, and telogen. The anagen phase is the phase where hair is actively growing, and of course this phase appears to be long lasting at the follicles on the scalp than anywhere else on your body, and long lasts more for women than men. It is natural for follicles to atrophy and hair to fall out, and this is called the catagen phase. This phase is only temporary, and eventually the follicle enters the telogen phase where it is resting. These are the 10% at rest mentioned above. Normal anagen phases last approximately five years, with catagen phases lasting about three weeks, and telogen phases lasting approximately 12 weeks.
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MORE HAIR FACTS AND HAIR LOSS
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Although both men and women can suffer significant hair loss, over 50% of men will suffer with Male Pattern Baldness (MPB), also known as androgenetic alopecia, at some point in their lives. The reason behind hair loss is a genetically inherited sensitivity to Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and 5-alpha-reductase. The enzyme 5-alpha-reductase converts testosterone, a male hormone, to DHT, the substance identified as the end-cause for hair loss.
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Hair loss follows a pattern
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Most hair loss follows a pattern that has been codified in a table called the Norwood Scale.There are seven patterns of hair identified in the Norwood Scale, Norwood I being a normal head of hair with no visible hair loss, Norwood II showing the hair receding in a wedge-shaped pattern. Norwood III shows the same receding pattern as Norwood II, except the hairline has receded deeper into the frontal area and the temporal area.
Type IV on the Norwood Scale indicates a hairline that has receded more dramatically in the frontal region and temporal area Additionally, there is a balding area at the very top center of the head, but there is a bridge of hair remaining between that region and the front. Type V on the Norwood Scale shows that very same bridge between the frontal region and the top center, also called the vertex, beginning to be thin. Type VI on the Norwood Scale indicates that the bridge between the frontal region and the vertex has disappeared. Finally, Type VII on the Norwood Scale shows hair receding all the way back to the base of the head and the sides just above the ears. Norwood's patterns are determined genetically.
Figure 1. Norwood Scale
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What exactly are androgens?
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Androgens are produced by the adrenal glands, which protect the body in stressful situations by also producing adrenaline so that the body may respond to situations it deems to be threatening.
The stress of daily life in Western civilization has caused a state of alarm in people that has made the body unable to distinguish between everyday stressors and threatening situations. Therefore, the adrenal glands in most people in Western civilizations are overactive, constantly producing adrenaline and naturally producing testosterone along with it.
For starters, although androgenetic alopecia or pattern baldness is genetic and therefore can be hereditary, it is not passed down through only your mother’s side of the family. Either side of the family can pass down the genetic disposition toward baldness.
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PRESCRIPTION DRUG TREATMENTS
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While topical solutions such as Rogaine® brand monoxidil have been used to treat hair loss, Propecia® brand Finasteride by Merck & Company, Inc. is the only FDA approved pill approved for the prevention of hair loss and possible hair re-growth. Like Rogaine®, Propecia® was discovered when its generic equivalent being used for another purpose was found to have beneficial side effects.
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Many BHP patients were also suffering with MPB, and when patients began taking Proscar®, they noticed the re-growth of hair also. This sparked new testing and the birth of Propecia® as a hair restoration drug. The approval of Propecia® by the FDA was easy to achieve, since it was merely marketing already approved Finasteride as a hair restoration drug, with a much smaller dosage than that required for BPH.
Propecia® is being prescribed by doctors to some patients as an oral treatment to internally block the production of DHT. Propecia is an androgen hormone inhibitor only approved for men, and has been clinically proven to grow hair on a significant percentage of men who suffer with Male Pattern Baldness (MPB) or more properly androgenetic alopecia. Unfortunately, the drug has not been approved for use by women at this time. This is especially true for women who are pregnant or can become pregnant.
Propecia® works by reversing the shrinkage of hair follicles that are in the telogen phase, or last phase of the normal hair cycle. Propecia® works best in combination with topical treatments of Monoxidil such as Rogaine®. Participants in studies have seen hair grow in as little as six months, whereas those who have seen no results in a year’s time are reported not likely to see any results from the drug. One round of testing of over 2,000 men with androgenetic alopecia over a four-year period showed half with reported new hair growth.
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GOOD GROOMING AND CARE
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Hair is fairly strong and can generally withstand normal grooming techniques. However, there can be thinning or breakage of hair due to poor grooming habits, and following several tips can prevent these bouts of thinning and breakage. Brushing the hair in general can be stimulating to the scalp, encouraging blood flow to the hair follicles and maintaining their health. Brushing the hair before washing it can loosen up flakes of sebum and dead skin buildup and make it easier to thoroughly clean the scalp during shampooing.
Over hair combing or over brushing generally will cause damage to the hair, which is quite contrary to the old 100-stroke brushing rule. Although clean hair is desirable and even necessary for the maintenance of healthy hair, excessive shampooing can strip vital minerals like calcium, phosphorus, nitrogen and iron from the hair. This is particularly true when using commercial shampoos.
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Formaldehyde as a preservative
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Most commercial shampoos contain formaldehyde as a preservative. To disguise the presence of formaldehyde it is listed in the ingredients as Quanternium-15. This substance can be carcinogenic (cancer-causing) and poisonous to the entire system.
Unfortunately, for those who suffer with dandruff, anti-dandruff shampoos are some of the most dangerous shampoos on the market. Selenium sulfide is the main ingredient in most dandruff shampoos, a substance that has shown to cause degeneration of the liver. Other toxic chemicals such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone plastic (PVP), which is a proven carcinogenic, and creosol which has been proven to be highly toxic are commonly found in dandruff shampoos.
This is why it is very important to correct this condition as quickly as possible through natural means. Natural shampoos normally found in health food stores are a much better choice. Even with natural shampoos, be careful of the ingredient Sodium Lauryl Sulfate can strip away too much oil from the hair, causing shampoo residue to be left behind.
Ingredients that have proven useful in shampoos are cocamides, Panthenol Pro-B, of course the previously discussed vitamins, aloe Vera, sage, nettle, burdock, chamomile, chaparral, horsetail and rosemary. Furthermore, look for shampoos that contain keratin, the protein substance that hair is made of, or amino acids. This will help seal breakages in the cuticle.
Choose a shampoo with a proper pH balance; a level of 5.5 is ideal. The pH scale runs from 0 to 6.9 for acids and 7.1 to 14 for alkaline, with 7 being neutral. Although generally conditioners are good for hair, provided that they do not contain the previously mentioned harmful chemicals, shampoos with conditioners included should be avoided.
Shampooing and conditioning serve two different functions and the effectiveness of both are diminished by combining the process. When shampooing, pour the shampoo into the hands and rub the shampoo in with your hands rather than pouring it on your head. By pouring shampoo directly into the hair you may promote build up in one particular spot.
Massage gently with your fingertips to loosen flakes and build up and to stimulate circulation, but avoid using the fingernails as this may scratch the scalp and cause scarring over time. Shampoo with warm water to open the pores and rinses with cool water to promote shrinking the pores back to their normal size. After washing your hair, dry it by blotting the hair with a towel. Avoid rubbing, especially with terrycloth towels, as this will pull hair when it is in a weakened state due to the wetness.
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Misuse can cause serious damage to the hair shaft
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Be sure to follow directions on all perms and relaxers, as misuse can cause serious damage to the hair shaft. Excessive coloring, styling or heat treatments, and chemical treatments can damage hair and cause breakage even when directions are followed. Always keep in mind that these perms and relaxers have harsh chemicals in them that chemically alter the hair, and long-term use of these chemicals can cause harm to hair shafts and follicles causing some hair loss.
If you can avoid the use of these chemicals, by all means do. The result could be the increased life of your hair. If you decide to use perms or relaxers to process hair, be sure to use semi-permanent hair color or henna. This will avoid harsh reactions between the relaxer or perm and the ammonia and peroxide amounts in permanent dyes.
It is always best to allow the hair to rest untreated as much as possible, and avoid mixing chemical processes. Another styling caution is against the overuse of hairstyles that pull the hair too tight, such as ponytails and braids, which will cause hair loss, especially along the sides of the scalp. This syndrome is called traction alopecia. Keep in mind when styling hair that hair is living and growing, and is susceptible to the stress of constant pulling continuous abuse causes scarring, which will lead to permanent hair loss in the areas affected.
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The typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.”
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The many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp. For example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress on the hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness.
Corn rowing and braiding are methods of hair styling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually reversible with proper hair care.
Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp, which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron. Hot oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to repairing the hair cuticles.
Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on the hair. This process can heal breakage and shinier stronger hair will be the result. Consider that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains, which often are clogged by hair.
No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic. This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as easily clean a sink.
Repeated use of such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each individual. However, the facts should be known.
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There are a variety of hair and scalp disorders some are very common, while other more severe hair and scalp diseases are fortunately rare. Alopecia Areata is an autoimmune skin disorder that causes the body’s immune system to attack the hair follicles, causing baldness in patches. It affects 1.7 percent of the population, including 4.7 million people in the United States. In cases where the disease progresses to the point where all scalp hair is lost, it is called Alopecia Totalis, and where hair-loss advances to the entire body it is called Alopecia Universalis.
There is noknown cause for alopecia areata and therefore, noknown cure. The disorder usually hits before age 20, and does not seem to favor one particular gender or culture. Hair loss with alopecia areata comes in stages, with hair returning and falling out in phases.
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Seborrheic Dermatitis, an advanced form of seborrhea, is a non-contagious skin disorder that causes excessive oiliness of the skin, most commonly in the scalp, caused by overproduction of sebum, the substance produced by the body to lubricate the skin where hair follicles are present.
Psoriasis is termed an immune-mediated disorder that affects different areas and functions of the body. It is non-contagious, and one of the areas of the body it can affect is the scalp. It usually appears as patches of raised red skin accompanied by burning and itching. Several contributing factors are thought to contribute to the outbreak of psoriasis, including emotional stress, certain infections, toxemia, the thinning of the intestinal walls and adverse reactions to certain drugs. At least a half of people who have psoriasis have scalp psoriasis. Like seborrhea, scalp psoriasis left untreated can cause hair loss. Fortunately, it can also be treated with a variety of topical creams and shampoos containing tar and salicylic acid.
Eczema is another non-contagious skin disorder that mimics psoriasis very closely. Eczema produces scales, reddened inflamed skin that periodically ooze, and the familiar itch that is of supreme annoyance to those that suffer with it. These are, however, two different disorders that usually require different treatments. However, there are certain treatments that work for psoriasis that works for eczema also. Eczema causes extreme buildup and sores on the scalp, and can cause severe scarring. The build up caused by eczema can cause temporary hair loss. However, the scarring that can occur especially if one scratches the painfully itchy lesions can cause permanent damage to the hair follicles. Eczema is an illness caused by toxemia as well. And although one can use the various medicated shampoos and creams on the market to control its symptoms, permanent relief is only going to come from removing the cause of the toxemia. Therefore, once again cleansing and drinking plenty of purified water are keys to fighting eczema.
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